A Natural History of Conewago Falls—The Waters of Three Mile Island
Geology, Fossils, and More
Geology, Fossils, and More
The path of the lower Susquehanna River cuts through bedrock that chronicles much of the last 550 million years or more of earth’s history. If one were to travel the Susquehanna from the mouth of the Juniata River at Clark’s Ferry downstream to Chesapeake Bay at Havre de Grace, Maryland, he or she would pass through surface formations composed of strata representing each of the geologic eras: the Precambrian, the Paleozoic, the Mesozoic, and the current Cenozoic.
Since the Pennsylvanian and Permian Periods, the time when the collision of Africa and North America completed the assembly of supercontinent Pangaea and caused the thrust-faulting that created the Appalachian and Allegheny Mountains, the area that is today the Susquehanna River watershed has been in an extended cycle of nearly continuous erosion. This erosion has erased nearly every trace of sedimentary bedrock originating during the Mesozoic Era—the age of the dinosaurs. There are but two exceptions, the formations of the Triassic Gettysburg Basin and small Cretaceous Period deposits near the fall line at the mouth of the Susquehanna in Maryland.
The outlined section of the map above (enlarged below) charts the course of the river through the Triassic Gettysburg Basin, home to some of the Susquehanna’s most interesting geologic features—each more than 190 million years old.
Perhaps the basin’s most familiar formations are composed of diabase, the erosion-resistant igneous bedrock of Conewago Falls and its Pothole Rocks. These formations, once subterranean in the rift valley/basin, are today the foundation of many of the upper Piedmont Province’s most conspicuous hills and ridges. In Pennsylvania, Triassic diabase, colloquially known as “ironstone”, is the most recent of the remaining rock formations in the Lower Susquehanna River Watershed.
Note: Though considered to be components of the Triassic Gettysburg Basin, diabase formations, and possibly some of the redbed sediments, using the most current timeline, are now placed in the Jurassic Period (defined as 201.3 to 145 million years ago). For this reason, you may see terms including “Jurassic diabase” and “Triassic-Jurassic Gettysburg Basin” in use with increasing frequency.
Approximately 230 million years ago, as the supercontinent Pangaea began separating (a process that would, in time, divide Africa from North America) numerous rift basins formed along an arc paralleling the present-day Atlantic coast of the United States. As they subsided, the majority of these new valleys filled with sediments that eventually consolidated into new rock formations—then they stopped sinking and stabilized. The exception, the rift associated with the Mid-Atlantic Ridge, is still opening in the center of the Atlantic Ocean as the African and North American continents continue to creep apart at a rate of one to two inches every year.
A trip down the Susquehanna through the Gettysburg Basin is a journey back in geologic time—a stroll across the layers of sediment and injections of igneous diabase that filled a Triassic Period sink hole. If you’re walking a riverside trail, each step bridges strata laid down over hundreds of years of time.
Let’s have a look at the geologic formations of the Gettysburg Basin—beginning with the most recent.
During the Early (Lower) Jurassic Period, molten magma began intruding into fractures and weak points in both the newly deposited Late (Upper) Triassic sediments of the Gettysburg Basin and some adjoining formations of earlier origin. This magma heated and hardened the sediments it contacted and, as it slowly cooled, became diabase. Diabase sills, presently exposed at the surface after millions of years of erosion, are the foundation of the falls, the nearby hills, and several of the islands in the Gettysburg Basin Archipelago. Narrow diabase dikes intruded some of the faults in pre-basin rock to form ridges that often extend well beyond the boundaries of the original rift valley.
Of the formations of York Haven Diabase, Professor Samuel Steman Haldeman wrote in Rupp’s History of Lancaster County (1844)…
“…the most interesting feature in the Conewago hills, is the large amount of weathered blocks on the surface, of a hard grey stone made up of white and black particles. This is a trap rock of the variety called greenstone, and identical in composition with the smaller ridges which traverse different parts of the country, under the name ironstone, a mineral remarkable for the sonorous ring produced when struck. The finer texture of the latter is produced by the rapid cooling of the material, consequent upon the comparatively small quantity of matter; this rock being of igneous origin, and injected from below in a melted condition. In the Conewago rock the quantity of material is so great, that in the length of time required to solidify, the constituents were able to enter into combinations; or crystallize, in a manner; whence the felspar and hornblend appear in distinct particles.”
From just upstream of the Pennsylvania Turnpike bridge through Conewago Falls, the river wears away at the silty mudstone, conglomerate, sandstone, and shale of the Gettysburg Formation. More than 200 million years ago, these reddish sediments, sometimes called Triassic redbeds, eroded from surrounding highlands into the rift valley of the Gettysburg Basin—covering the previously deposited New Oxford Formation sediments. Over the following 10 million years, York Haven Diabase intruded these sediments and formed the bedrock of Conewago Falls and other unique geologic features.
Below the falls and downstream to Bainbridge, the river flows through the lighter-colored and slightly older sedimentary rocks, mostly sandstone, shale, and conglomerate, of the New Oxford Formation.
At Bainbridge, the river’s waters exit the present-day remains of the Gettysburg Basin and enter formations of Cambrian limestone and dolomite, and, a little further downstream, pass through metamorphic Cambrian quartzite. The basin’s New Oxford rock formerly overlaid these much older formations, but has since eroded away.
Originally deposited as sediments precipitated from seawater on a continental shelf, Cambrian formations along the river’s shorelines downstream of the Gettysburg Basin consist of what were formerly the overlying strata of an anticline that, today, reveals itself as an erosion-resistant metamorphic base layer—Lower Cambrian Chickies Formation quartzite. This anticline is best seen further downstream where the Susquehanna passes through Chickies Rock, just north of Columbia. Nearer the basin, and just downstream of Bainbridge, or more specifically below Locust Grove and the mouth of Conoy Creek, one of the eroded upper layers, the Ledger Formation of dolomite, has been extensively quarried. It and remnants of other Cambrian formations that once overlaid the Chickies Formation are conspicuous at outcrops along the river in the vicinity.
The “hinge” line for the “half-graben” that formed the Gettysburg Basin when Pangaea began stretching apart was located in the vicinity of these Cambrian formations. The “hinge” remained mostly intact as the existing bedrock slowly subsided, eventually dipping more than a mile deep along the block-fault line near the present-day location of the Pennsylvania Turnpike bridge. The sediments that consolidated into the Gettysburg and New Oxford Formations filled this rift valley as it deepened. The layers settled into the trough, accumulations often thinnest near the axis and thicker near the fault, creating tapered strata. If we could project the lines between the strata layers of the remaining Gettysburg and New Oxford Formations, they may point toward a convergence point far above present-day ground level in the general downstream direction of the Cambrian formations, allowing one to ponder the enormous volume of rock that has eroded during the past 190 million years.
Haldeman Riffles is a small tumble of rapids located where a thin ledge of diabase—a dike—intruded faulted Cambrian formations downstream of the Gettysburg Basin. It seems quite probable that this Cambrian rock, weakened by the hinging and the sinking of the rift valley, was intruded by the molten diabase magma from the asthenosphere to form the dike at Haldeman Riffles at about the same time diabase intruded the Gettysburg and New Oxford Formations further upstream.
In the area we currently recognize as the Susquehanna River watershed, fossils from the Gettysburg Basin and neighboring Newark Basin are the most recent geologic evidence available to indicate the presence of dinosaurs and other life during the Mesozoic Era (252 to 66 million years ago). Erosive forces have claimed nearly all sediments laid down after the basin’s formation, particularly those of the Jurassic and Cretaceous Periods—the time of the largest of dinosaurs. Here are some of the life forms discovered as fossils or trace fossils in what remains of the Triassic strata of the Susquehanna River valley.
THE FOSSIL RECORD OF THE MESOZOIC ERA
“The Age of Reptiles”
Fossil Evidence of
TRIASSIC LIFE
in the Lower Susquehanna River Watershed
Within the New Oxford Formation, we find fossil evidence of a variety of the tropical plants and animals that inhabited the Gettysburg Basin during the Late Triassic—230 to 220 million years ago.
In 1900, the United States Geological Survey published, in its twentieth annual report, an account of the Triassic plant fossils found in New Oxford Formation sediments near Conewago Falls. This account, “Triassic Flora of York County, Pennsylvania”, was a collaboration between Atreus Wanner, a York County educator and amateur paleontologist, and Professor William M. Fontaine. The latter examined fossils Wanner had recovered from cuts along the North Central Railroad line south of York Haven and from excavations along Little Conewago Creek near Manchester. Fontaine discovered among Wanner’s collection many new species of fossil plants, thus rendering Wanner’s samples the type specimens. Two of the new cycads were named for Wanner—Ctenophyllum wannerianum and Cycadeospermum wanneri.
These fourteen plates from Wanner and Fontaine’s work illustrate the fossil remains of some of the tropical plants found in the Gettysburg Basin 230 to 220 million years ago—a time when the area was at a latitude similar to that of the present-day Caribbean Islands and southern Florida.
As fossilized footprints in the Gettysburg Formation of the Gettysburg Basin, we find evidence of the emergence of bipedal dinosaurs during the Late Triassic—220 to 200 million years ago.
A single dinosaur skeleton fossil has been found in the Lower Susquehanna River Watershed. It is of Late Triassic origin and was preserved in Hammer Creek Formation shale to the east of the Gettysburg Basin in the neighboring Newark Basin near Bowmansville in northeastern Lancaster County, Pennsylvania.
Fossil Evidence of
JURASSIC LIFE
in the Lower Susquehanna River Watershed
Within the present-day lower Susquehanna valley, diabase sills and dikes that intruded the Triassic formations of the Gettysburg and Newark Basins more than 190 million years ago are the only remaining rock from the Jurassic Period. In several locations, diabase dikes intruded faults in bordering formations of a much earlier origin. Because diabase is in a molten igneous state and is subterranean when deposited, it contains no fossil record of life. Any layers of sediments that may have been deposited during the Jurassic Period, including those which may have preserved the remains of enormous dinosaurs as fossils, have since eroded away. There is evidence of but one gigantic dinosaur from this time—”Dinosaur Rock”.
Fossil Evidence of
CRETACEOUS LIFE
in the Lower Susquehanna River Watershed
More to follow on this topic soon.
THE FOSSIL RECORD OF THE CENOZOIC ERA
“The Age of Mammals”
During the Cenozoic Era, a time that began with the mass extinctions that eliminated the colossal dinosaurs (66 million years ago) and extends to the present day, a stream slowly enlarged a path through the faulted rocks of towering mountains to capture the flows of neighboring waterways and become a great river. It found passage to the sea by eroding a channel through a low saddle in a faulted formation of diabase, washing away Triassic redbeds and other rock while leaving terraces of alluvium surrounding its path. After the impact of a mile-wide meteor that left a crater 56 miles in diameter and a mile deep in the ocean floor near the present-day location of Norfolk, Virginia, it collected new tributaries and carved a steep-sided passage to the edge of the Continental Shelf. It became the Susquehanna, and it created the topographic features we know today as Conewago Falls, the Gettysburg Basin Archipelago (including Three Mile Island), Haldeman Riffles, and the great gorge that meanders from the river’s present-day mouth at Havre de Grace to Norfolk Canyon, its mouth during times of low sea level. During the current interglacial centuries, we call the inland portion of this flooded and silt-filled gorge by a familiar name—Chesapeake Bay. These features are but the current geomorphology of a landscape undergoing a continuous natural process of change.
Fossil Evidence of
TERTIARY LIFE
in the Lower Susquehanna River Watershed
More to follow on this topic soon.
Fossil Evidence of
QUATERNARY LIFE
in the Lower Susquehanna River Watershed
More to follow on this topic soon.
The plants, animals, and other life forms found in the basin today have slowly evolved and adapted to ecosystems millions of years in the making. They are the lone legacy of the earlier flora and fauna for which we have no geological record. They are the migrants and movers, species that successfully colonized and recolonized the Lower Susquehanna River Watershed as ecosystems transitioned due to climate cycles and sometimes violent geological events. They have time invested here, and their ancestry predates the basin itself. They are the survivors. Their lineage has overcome everything a changing planet could send their way—then came the humans.
BEFORE THE GETTYSBURG BASIN
“Pre-Mesozoic/Pre-Triassic Life in the Lower Susquehanna River Watershed”
THE FOSSIL RECORD OF THE PROTEROZOIC EON
Fossil Evidence of
“PRECAMBRIAN ERA” LIFE
in the Lower Susquehanna River Watershed
More to follow on this topic soon.
THE FOSSIL RECORD OF THE PALEOZOIC ERA
Fossil Evidence of
“LOWER PALEOZOIC” LIFE
in the Lower Susquehanna River Watershed
“The Age of Invertebrates”
More to follow on this topic soon.
Fossil Evidence of
CAMBRIAN LIFE
in the Lower Susquehanna River Watershed
“The Age of Invertebrates”
More to follow on this topic soon.
Fossil Evidence of
CAMBRIAN-ORDOVICIAN LIFE
in the Lower Susquehanna River Watershed
“The Age of Invertebrates”
More to follow on this topic soon.
Fossil Evidence of
ORDOVICIAN LIFE
in the Lower Susquehanna River Watershed
“The Age of Invertebrates”
More to follow on this topic soon.
Fossil Evidence of
SILURIAN LIFE
in the Lower Susquehanna River Watershed
More to follow on this topic soon.
Fossil Evidence of
DEVONIAN LIFE
in the Lower Susquehanna River Watershed
“The Age of Fishes”
More to follow on this topic soon.
Fossil Evidence of
MISSISSIPPIAN LIFE
in the Lower Susquehanna River Watershed
More to follow on this topic soon.
Fossil Evidence of
PENNSYLVANIAN LIFE
in the Lower Susquehanna River Watershed
More to follow on this topic soon.
Fossil Evidence of
PERMIAN LIFE
in the Lower Susquehanna River Watershed
“The Age of Amphibians”
More to follow on this topic soon.
SOURCES
Cuffey, Roger J. 2008. “Stop 8—Dinosaur Footprints on the Plum Run Bridge”. Geology of the Gettysburg Mesozoic Basin and Military Geology of the Gettysburg Campaign: Annual Field Conference of Pennsylvania Geologists, 73rd, Gettysburg, Pennsylvania, Guidebook. pp. 130-132.
Donehoo, Dr. George P. 1928. A History of the Indian Villages and Place Names in Pennsylvania. Wennawoods Publishing (1998 reprint). Lewisburg, PA.
Glaeser, J. Douglas. 1966. Provenance, Dispersal, and Depositional Environments of Triassic Sediments in the Newark-GettysburgBasin. Pennsylvania Geological Survey. Fourth Series. General Geology Report 43.
Haldeman, Samuel Steman. 1844. “Geology of Lancaster County”. I. Daniel Rupp’s History of Lancaster County. Gilbert Hills. Lancaster, PA. p.466.
Johnston, Herbert E. 1966. Hydrology of the New Oxford Formation in Lancaster County, Pennsylvania. Pennsylvania Geological Survey. Fourth Series. Bulletin W 23.
Jones, Jeri L., Cuffey, Roger J., and Gordon, Kathy. 2017. “A Probable Protosuchian (Crocodilian) Footprint from the Late Triassic in South-Central Pennsylvania”. Pennsylvania Geology. 47(1):3-7.
Olsen, Paul E., and Baird, Donald. 1986. “The Ichnogenus Atreipus and Its Significance for Triassic Biostratigraphy”: In K. Padian (ed.), The Beginning of the Age of the Dinosaurs, Faunal Change Across the Triassic-Jurassic Boundary. Cambridge University Press. New York, NY. pp. 61-87.
Pennsylvania Geologic Data Exploration (PaGEODE) mapping website. Pennsylvania Geological Survey. www.gis.dcnr.state.pa.us/geology/index.html as accessed June 29, 2019.
Poag, C. W. 1998. The Chesapeake Bay Bolide Impact—A New View of Coastal Plain Evolution. U. S. Geological Survey Fact Sheet 049-98, 2 pp.
Root, Samuel I. 1977. Geology and Mineral Resources of the Harrisburg West Area, Cumberland and York Counties, Pennsylvania. Pennsylvania Geological Survey. Fourth Series. Atlas 148ab.
Stose, George W. and Jonas, Anna I. 1939. Geology and Mineral Resources of York County, Pennsylvania. Pennsylvania Geological Survey. Fourth Series. Bulletin C 67.
Van Diver, Bradford B. 1990. Roadside Geology of Pennsylvania. Mountain Press Publishing Company. Missoula, MT.
Wanner, Atreus. and Fontaine, William M. 1900. “Triassic Flora of York County, Pennsylvania”. In Lester F. Ward (ed.), Status of the Mesozoic Floras of the United States. Extract from the Twentieth Annual Report. United States Geological Survey. Washington, D.C. pp.231-255. (Including Plates XXI-XXXIV, pp.431-458).